Most 2022 Chevy Silverado Trims Ditched 12-Volt Outlets
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The refreshed 2022 Chevy Silverado 1500 introduces a swath of changes and updates for the light-duty pickup truck, officially making its big debut last September. However, customers eager to purchase a new 2022 Chevy Silverado 1500 should be aware that most trim levels are no longer equipped with a 12-volt outlet.
As it stands, the only refreshed 2022 Chevy Silverado 1500 trim levels to include a 12-volt power socket are the WT, Custom, and Custom Trail Boss, each of which is equipped with the front auxiliary, 12-volt power outlet (RPO code KD5). Every other trim level in the refreshed lineup is no longer available with a 12-volt socket.
This stands in contrast to the preceding 2022 Chevy Silverado 1500 Limited and older model years for the pickup nameplate, which featured the front auxiliary, 12-volt power outlet as standard across all trim levels. Additionally, older LT, RST, LT Trail Boss, LTZ, and High Country trims also included the Rear auxiliary, 12-volt power outlet (RPO code KPA), although this feature was not equipped by WT, Custom, or Custom Trail Boss trims.
Now, however, the 2022-model-year refresh has expanded availability for the Instrument panel, 120-volt power outlet (RPO code KI4) and the Bed mounted, 120-volt power outlet (RPO code KC9), both of which are optional for the WT trim level and standard for all other trim levels in the lineup. Both features were previously optional for WT, Custom, Custom Trail Boss, LT, RST, and LT Trail Boss, and standard for LTZ and High Country trims.
Essentially, refreshed 2022 Chevy Silverado 1500 customers should keep in mind that most trim levels are no longer equipped with a 12-volt outlet. As such, customers that would like to use 12-volt accessories will likely need to purchase a third-party adapter.
As a reminder, the refreshed 2022 Chevy Silverado 1500 is available with four engine options, including the turbocharged 2.7L I4 L3B gasoline engine, the naturally aspirated 5.3L V8 L84 gasoline engine, the naturally aspirated 6.2L V8 L87 gasoline engine, and the 3.0L I6 LM2 turbodiesel Duramax. Under the body panels, the Silverado rides on the GM T1 platform, with production taking place at the GM Fort Wayne Plant in Indiana, the GM Silao plant in Mexico, and later this year, the GM Oshawa plant in Canada.
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There’s something ironic about the new “All In” electric car company GM not being able to offer 12-volt outlets on one of their most popular vehicles.
I don’t find it ironic at all. Who even uses these anymore? I haven’t seen anyone use a 12V socket since what, 2010? 120V household outlets plus wireless charging are the way to go. It’s time to modernize and lowercase gm is doing just that.
Radar detectors and air compressors, including the one that comes with models without the spare.
The big problem is, at least in the previous generation, is GM didn’t bother to implement USB PD on the USB-C ports, which means max 4.5 W supply. That makes them useless for fast charging phones and charging laptops, and is why radar detectors had to use 12 V. A common way around this was to get a cigarette lighter to USB-C adapter, which are easily available in the 30-45 W range.
The 12 V APOs were good in excess of 100 W, now you have to carry a bulky wall wart if you have something in excess of 4 W of power, even something as small as a streaming stick.
Yeah and the 120V outlet has something like 400 watts. The 12V cig lighters are outdated.
The thing is 120 V is dangerous, so anything that plugs in has to have good insulation to meet electrical safety standards and also comply with national efficiency laws. So it generally has to be bulkier and more expensive than DC components. I’d also have concerns about running a charger designed for home over long periods in a car with vibration, extreme temperatures, rain and condensation.
What I’m pretty sure will happen is somebody like the Germans will put in a 60 W USB-C PD port, and it will eventually go up to 100 W, and then we’ll get USB-C tire inflators. That will be a decent replacement for the 12 V APO. I’ve gotten numerous ads for one of the chip manufacturers that already makes a full automotive dual 60 W module.
Until then, we get stuck with inadequate USB ports and annoying wall warts.
I use it for my laptop too for work. They take away every little thing they can and charge you more for less!!
I use it all the time. What do they expect you to plug your radar detectors into? Or a stand alone GPS.
Radar detector I understand but… standalone GPS???
Dennis, what decade are you living in?
well when they charge you for using the GPS functions and have to pay for yearly updates !!
my trusty Garmin 8vinch has free updates for life.
unfortunately no wayvto plug it in.
There are plenty of devices out there that use 12 volts for cars. You must of been born in 2000.
I need it for a portable brake controller since they also eliminated that from the vehicle also
No 12 volt power outlet! What if you travel with a koolitron. Now they say if you want one get a third party adaptor.
I work in Paving/concrete and I’m a volunteer firefighter, so I obviously have a lot of different LED lights inside my car that all use cigarette lighter adapters. My front and rear 12 volt Outlets are occupied with 3 Way switched adapters for the six different lights I use depending on if I’m going to an emergency or parked on the side of the road for work. What are construction workers, plow operators, utility Crews, and volunteer emergency responders going to do for warning lighting?
Get the work truck or a Custom model, which retain the outlets. Simple.
Or use an adapter.
Yea peasant
Lights should be wired in. No commercial vehicle is going to have lights plugged into the cigarette lighter.
GM trucks have the built-in aux switch option, that’s not changing. Otherwise, the upfitter can go to the battery, GM provides mounting terminals that snap right into the battery junction box.
Any excuse for gm to save money it’s not about the customer option to use one I use them for my safety lights when I’m plowing let the customers decide what to use !
12 volt outlets is missing ? What a shame.. my 2011 W/T came with two in the trim package.. 2Wheel drive ext cab 4.8 motor.. very happy with it.. Chevy should have more 12 volt outlets as you can it’s is only the right thing to do.. My 2010 Raptor has 4 12 volt outlets basic in it.. come on GM.. step up to the Plate!!!
That is a 12 year old truck, how many do the new ones have? I bet less… They are being phased out for a reason. I can’t think of the last time I used one. My compressor has gator clips that connect to the battery, I have plenty of USB ports and a household outlet. So other than a small group of people 98%+ probably have no use for them, so why add them when they can be used for better more useful things? CD players were in the same category. People complained at first, now no one would even use them.
I have purchased over 60 vehicles in my almost 60 years mostly GM but I have reached my limit of manufactures deciding what I need in my vehicle. They are raping us at every opportunity and almost every vehicle currently built is worse than the previous model in terms of mechanical reliability and body and frames rust. The fact that a frame on a truck will rust out is ridiculous. Every model year they always brag about how much stronger their frame is. They don’t say it’s only for 8-9 years then you will be able to push a screwdriver through it because it’s junk steel and they make it so it holds moisture in low places. No more paying their prices for junk that barely out lives the warranty.
I totally agree. They are stepping over the dollars to get to the dimes!
Yeah that is 100% completely false. Other than the body panels getting thinner everything is A) better than previous versions and B) there is no rusting frames, especially late models. Toyota was the last big one to have that issue and show me where anything in the past 10 years on these trucks have had major rust issues where a vehicle has to be pulled off the street. There isn’t, so why lie to try and strengthen your mislead view point? Gm had some body panel rusting issues in the 80’s to early 00’s, no frame problems. Wax dipping works as it gets in and coats inside and out, that is why they keep sticking with it.
In terms of reliability, that is laughable. You would be hard pressed to take a 100k mile vehicle on a cross country road trip without thinking seriously wondering if it will be reliable or not. Today, you wouldn’t think twice. Everything tested and designed far more/better than decades ago and are (outside of a few people with old school misguided they don’t make them like they used to point) infinitely more reliable to everyone with some commonsense. BTW, those who say they don’t build them like they used to always talked about in a fishing sense how big and strong/heavy cars were back in the day. Well ever seen a car crash between an old and new vehicle? Ever actually look up the weights of those old vehicles? They are some twice as heavy tank you think they were, far from it…
If you are going to leave over a 12 volt outlet which is still in the models that most people who even use them get, then please do. That is one of the most petty excuses for not buying a vehicle I have seen. Most manufacturers will be getting rid of them just like the CD player. There will be some small hold outs or complainers, but it will be utilized for other things like more modern charge ports or walk plugs.
Find a Jeep Wrangler that is out of factory warranty and you would be a fool to buy it without checking the frame, floor boards and electrical system with a fine tooth comb. These are disposable junk and WAY overpriced gas guzzlers. You saying my comment is 100% untrue is 100% untrue. I have you just a few examples but you can go through car for sale ads from sources other than a dealer and there will be lots…NOT ALL, that have rust or mechanical issues and less than 100k miles. There won’t be any classic car shows in the future with anything after 2008ish unless they bring them in a dustpan.
Thats bullsh!t., my 48000 mile Denali died with an electrical problem from the salty north, on a cross country road trip which kept me getting a dead battery, 3 dealers, none could fix the problem, crunchy harness and could not find the place the shorts were happening. As a GM user with fleets of vehicles, this was to be my retirement truck….but to no avail, so she was left down south and my plow truck is gone…Bye Bye GMC.
Ford has transmission troubles, they have diesel issues. Ram always has issues, I sold my 2015 because I had a dozen issues in 2 years including the water pump on the Cummins and the truck would shift in and out of 4WD by itself at 70mph. I got rid of a 2013 Equinox that I kept impeccably maintained because the doors were rusting out and now that engine is having issues. How many problems has the 2015-2019 Z06 had with wheels breaking and serious overheating problems. GM is not the only one doing it they all are just greedy and don’t want to to correct the issues as long as there are suckers to keep paying for their disposable junk every 8-9 years.
Just think on their side how much they save on not putting outlets in thousands of their trucks gm is always tries to cut corners and us customers are suffering
I think this issue has rightly touched a nerve here….
I mean they always have spare spaces in the multitudinous fuse boxes cars have nowadays…. so what is the price of one short AWG #14 wire and a 20 ampere stab fuse?
I think my upcoming Lyriq (totally battery powered) will not have a ‘ciggy lighter accessory jack’, and will ONLY have USB-C’s and a wireless charger….
I’m unsure how they will power the toy air compressor for the spareless tires.
My current totally battery powered BOLT EUV (2022) has instructions in the owner’s manual how to jump start other cars off the 12 volt battery – however – what they don’t tell you is there are several bolted metal brackets in place that must be removed – and you have to provide your own socket set(s) to dismantle them. Great to try and do in an emergency.. The illustration in the owner’s manual just shows all the retaining and stabilizing brackets totally missing with no mention that they are there.
GM gets the basic car ok – but its the details of someone actually pretending to use the car everyday that they forget.
It’s not the wire and fuse, it’s the effect on the rest of the electrical system. An APO is rated for 15 amps. You have 3 in the car, you draw 45 amps max. That’s a quarter of a typically 170 amp alternator. That also adds to your cabling between the junction boxes and battery. An ordinary car battery should nominally discharge at 60-70 amps, so you might have to get a bigger battery. All of that adds weight and hurts fuel economy.
The other major engineering issue is on EVs and auto-start-stop vehicles. For auto-start-stop, you can wire the APO right into the main battery, in which case it will dip to 9-10 V every time you take off from a stop. That can cause your load to reset. Otherwise, you have to wire them into the DC/DC voltage booster, which requires expensive transistors, and heat sinking, and power loss, to handle an additional 45 amps.
EVs have this exact same issue, because they need a HV to LV converter, which then needs additional special insulation since you’ll kill somebody if 400 V appears on your cigarette outlet.
HAHAHAHA!!
Sam:
This is one of the biggest KNEE SLAPPER comments I’ve seen in months…
Its exactly like some “BIG EXPERT” coming to my house and seeing :
“You have ELEVEN – 20 ampere lighting circuits. Then you have 2 – 60 ampere distant loadcenter locations, so that’s 110 Plus 120 amperes or 230 amperes. Then you have besides all that, 3 EVs that need charging plus Central Air conditioning Plus an Extra Large 8 x 10 foot Hot Tub requiring a MINIMUM of a 60 ampere circuit – so figure another 250 amperes for all that…. So you need 480 Amperes MINIMUM for your household !!!!! Add to that a HUGE 5 horsepower 240 volt pressure washer, a 2 horsepower 240 volt air compressor, a 50 ampere welder outlet, a 4800 watt utility electric heater for the garage and added electrical appliances plus central vacuum cleaner PLUS a 20 ampere 240 circuit for the 3,000 watt (input) ham radio amplifier !
So according to this big expert I need a MINIMUM of 600 amperes for my home. Of course a ‘Bigger Expert’ – like those here, would say I need 220 amperes for the lighting, not 110 – seeing as they do not understand (the word is ‘Clueless’) how an Edison System works. Europeans are excused of course, but any American who claims to know everything is not.
Let’s get back down to reality:
1). The article (and all the commenter complaints) are about not having a SINGLE 12 volt accessory outlet, not THREE. Since cars had ‘high power’ cigarette lighters back in 1960 – when my family’s nice Rambler Station Wagon (with plenty of those ‘horrid and inefficient’ incandescent lights) had a WHOPPINGLY HUGE 25 ampere AUTOLITE generator, which didn’t make A BIT of Juice when the engine idled. 170 amperes from a modern day Alternator could probably do the same job without melt-down.
– We never had a dead battery with that car, nor did we have to change out the generator or 3 relay regulator….. The more basic problem with the vehicle was the Front End fell out into the middle of the intersection due to RUST from street salting in the Northeast, when the car was 4 years old.
So your first point about 3 power jacks is totally a strawman issue, that you have invented in your own mind to be shot down.
2). In my 2011 volt, the car had 3 power jacks (on only 2 fuses) – and somehow, somewhere, we never got any 400 volt shocks from them.
Uh— Chief: any plain old hookup wire you might have laying around has a 600 volt rating to it – but 30 volts is fine for anything on the ’12 volt’ side of things. Many homes’ neighborhoods are fed with 2,400, 14,000, or 34,500 volts – and they only rarely have problems with that high pressure juice escaping into the house.
3). Sorry to inform you, but fast chargers, celly chargers, and even toy air compressors for the run-flat ‘spareless’ tires you get nowadays, along with laptop chargers – all imply they are CHARGING something….. That CRITICAL spreadsheet laptop computer you are working on in the passenger seat can withstand a few second interruption now and again since they all IMPLY a BATTERY TO BE CHARGED is what the chargers are there for in the first place.
Postscript: Sam you must be an electrical engineer for GM – seeing as many complaints of the Silverado have been that the INFOTAINMENT system resets when starting the car on a less than fully charged battery..
Some GENIUS PhD needs to be hired to tell them to put a simple diode and capacitor in the logic circuits for the radio so that it can ‘Ride Through’ the cranking period (called starting) without getting so nervous and Tilting – like the old pinball machines used to do.
Totally figures a Bolt driver would get TRIGGERED by a reasonable engineering instruction. Liberals ain’t about science.
Ever get checked out for Alzheimer’s? You seriously should.
Its too bad Dementia that the few intelligent comments you see on these web logs are drowned out by the totally overwhelming number of people who cannot understand basic Horse Sense.
There obviously is no point for me to lay out an organized – and detailed response to Sam’s ridiculous comments…
The only reason I bothered is in my professional career I have met unfortunately many who have been promoted WAY BEYOND their competense level.
The comment by sam was an illustrative example of someone not understanding the first thing about what is actually happening.
So what’s gm going do now on their dashboard put a piece of plastic over the spot where the outlet suppose to be like they do with everything else
I thought my brand new 2022 70K refreshed truck was perfection when I picked it up at the dealership. (If you can excuse the fact I still feel like anyone paying 70K for a damn pickup should be tied and whipped LOL. Yep, I was raise by depression era grandparents). But I have to say, on the way home, I went to plug in my Valentine One radar detector and immediately decided this new truck is a total POS and total waste of money. The designer who removed the most basic 12V outlet that has been present in all cars for generations and powers all major car and marine accessories is the one who should be whipped and fired now.
Hi Js1:
You obviously “Get it”, unlike the vast majority here….
People don’t throw out the rest of their household gadgets just because they change vehicles..
Question: What ‘receptacles’ are provided? A 120 volt receptacle? Or just a USB-C jack so that you can’t plug in anything else?
There is a USB-A and USB-C in the dash where the previous 12V outlet was, in the center console, there is USB-A and USB-C plus the 110V, on the back of the center console, there is also USB-A and USB-C. then in the bed of the truck there is 110V.
Note that people will tell us to use a USB to 12V converter. This can work but is a very poor choice as you are boosting 5V low Amperage to 12V. My findings were that the USB-C to 12V will power my Valentine 1 radar detector but not anything else I have tried. The USB-A to 12V did not power anything and had to be returned. The dealership will run me a 12V outlet when I can get the truck in but it will basically be a dangling wire coming from under the dash.. again.. lovely for the cost of this “new and improved” vehicle.
JS1 thanks for the information.
Ok, – so a 3rd alternative is to pick up an aftermarket 110- 12volt power supply cube for the radar detector..
I would imagine the 110 outlet is good for around 400 watts since monkey-see-monkey-do car makers all provide competitively what ford does with the f-150.
Of course then, you would have to make sure your power supply adapter was HUGE to be able to run those toy 12 volt inflation compressors… More junk to kick around on the floor, when the vehicle has 12 volts innately anyway, haha.
I’m planning on purchasing a Caddy Lyriq – but it too has the bugaboo of ONLY USB-C’s…
I go on brief outings (mini-camping) to low-cost shelters with no electrics, and bring along a small microwave, hot plate, and air fryer/oven – that I all run off of a 2000 watt 12 volt inverter which ran just fine on my older plug-in cars – but much too difficult to use on my 2012 BOLT due to all the crap they pile on top of the 12 volt battery so that you cannot use jumper clips on them (I need around 170 amperes available so I have to make good connections)…
But its the same kind of frustration – Vehicle design by the “Marketing” Dept in lieu of any actual engineering decisions.
So I have a 2022 and the usb on the front console stays live always on. On my 2021 12v lighter adapter I was able to change a fuse to avoid it always being on and now controlled by shutting off the vehicle. Is there anyway around this for the new 2022?