GM Hit With Another Lawsuit For 5.3L Vortec V8 Oil Consumption
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Yet another class action lawsuit has been filed against General Motors over alleged oil consumption issues with the Generation IV 5.3L Vortec V8 engine that was offered in a variety of its full-size truck and SUV models.
This latest lawsuit, which is one in a number of class action proceedings filed against GM over the exact same issue, was filed in U.S. District Court for the Eastern District of Missouri. As Car Complaints reports, plaintiffs in this class action suit claim that affected Vortec V8 engines have faulty piston rings that fail to keep oil in the crankcase. This can lead to low oil levels, which can cause unacceptable heat and friction levels in the engine and potentially damage the engine internals. The oil leakage can also foul the spark plugs, causing the engine to misfire and/or shut down completely.
Just as in previous lawsuits over the alleged Vortec V8 oil consumption issues, this filing also claims the engine’s oil pressure relief valve sprays oil directly at the piston skirts, which can overload the rings and allow oil to sneak past into the combustion chamber, where it is then burned off.
Additionally, plaintiffs claim that the vehicle’s built-in oil level monitoring system can mislead the driver, as it does not indicate when the engine oil level has reached a critically low point. While the vehicle will produce a warning on the dash and an accompanying illuminated oil canister icon to warn the driver, these warnings are apparently not adequate enough to properly inform the driver of the current oil level.
This class-action lawsuit involves original owners or lessees of the following vehicles located in the state of Missouri:
- 2010-2014 GMC Sierra
- 2010-2014 GMC Yukon
- 2010-2014 GMC Yukon XL
- 2010-2014 Chevrolet Avalanche
- 2010-2014 Chevrolet Silverado
- 2010-2014 Chevrolet Suburban
- 2010-2014 Chevrolet Tahoe
Numerous other class-action lawsuits have been filed against GM over this issue in the United States, including in Ohio and Washington. A judge tossed out the Ohio suit last November after it was found that GM did not breach the terms of its warranty with the issue due to this being an inherent design defect and not a flaw related to manufacturing or materials.
GM Authority will provide an update on this latest Missouri oil burn lawsuit against GM when more information becomes available.
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Anecdotally, my 2012 5.3 Silverado consumes zero oil at 125,000 miles. And is out through cold starts in Canadian winters. Top tier synthetic oil since day 1.
In my family we’ve had 6 of these engines, not one has used any oil. I’m in Northern Alberta.
I’m curious how many actually have problems, and how many are bad engines compared to bad owners.
It seems like there are hundreds of issues out of millions of trucks.
Anyone know factual info?
We have a 5.3L Avalanche with around 300k miles. No oil consumption. We also regularly tow our 28 foot travel trailer in the spring and summer. Original engine and transmission. It is CRITICAL on these engine’s to disable the variable displacement “V4” feature. The deactivated cylinders are always the ones that show scarring upon rebuilding. The oil consumption issue is related to these cylinders being oiled while deactivated and below normal temps. The piston rings get loaded up allowing oil into the combustion chamber. It’s not uncommon to see scarring on these cylinders. If buying used you actually don’t want a 5.3L that’s had nothing but light highway miles because they’ve likely spent a good portion of life in V4 mode.
The precursor to the 5.3L was the 4.8L. it didn’t use cylinder cutoff and is widely considered a 350k engine. To get power numbers up GM added displacement and them tacked on cylinder cutoff to maintain the MPG ratings. This move literally took 200k miles off the life of these engines. Most of the time this will still get them beyond the warranty. When it doesn’t you have to jump through hoops and let them verify your oil consumption over time. You have to hit a certain amount of oil consumption before they’ll even warranty it. I don’t remember the exact figure but a family member went through this and I remember the amount of oil consumption he mentioned being insane. Eventually his oil consumption on his 60k 5.3L reached the necessary level and it was rebuilt under warranty. Something else that really stood out – the GM service tech told him they weren’t allowed to show owners the old piston/rings and these parts had to be sent back to GM in the box that contained the replacement parts. They evidently did not want pictures or examples of this particular 5.3 issue making the rounds. I believe what he said.
How do I deactivate the variable displacement “V4” on my 08 Tahoe with 5.3 engine?
I have 2007 Tahoe and it doing everything they described in article. Anyone in Ga know how to fix it or is it a group in Ga doing class action lawsuit
I have the same problem and couldn’t figure out why?.
2009 SILVERADO. BURNS 3 QUARTS EVERY 3000 MILES LIKE CLOCKWORK. IF I DON’T WANT TO BURN IT UP, I GOTTA KEEP ADDING OIL TO IT.
I have the same thing going on with my 2006 Chevy silverado ls 4.8l v8. Back in November of 2020. Crankshaft position sensor went out. I replaced it. And had no crank and no start. Broken everything down to have the motor pulled and started to break the motor down. Cause I’m checking the oil pump inside it. And I did notice that my spark plugs were fouled and well as my pistons. And I also had found out that I had a broken hydraulic roller lifter. In which I am going to replace all of those. As well as the cylinder heads and most of the gaskets and some of the bolts..
sell now
Tuner or gm dealer scan tool can deactivate cylinder displacement on demand
I have a 2010 silverado Z71 with a 5.3L with 111,000 miles had it for over 2 years, bought it with 50k on clock and use only mobil1 advanced synthetic oil and filter, I have to put a avg. of a quart and half in everytime between oil changes, so I see the problem others are having, it’s a pain to do like going old school always having to check oil on dipstick , don’t rely on the sensors , but my oil pressure is consistent and runs normal it’s just the mysterious oil consumption and if there is a problem on GM’s and which I’ve read they fixed on the models after our, then they were aware of the problem and they need to make right and fix the problem that we have
My 08 suburban consumes a quart every 300 miles so yeah I say its a problem
Hello, I saw this email about GM engines. I don’t know where to begin with my experience. Well, I brought a suburban 2011 Ltz. I took it to a chevy dealership, they said it was low 4 quarts of oil no leaks. While my extended warranty did not cover anything. And, they stated chevy is very aware of the bad engines. I spent $7,300.00 for a new engine. And now I feel I should be reimbursed!! CHEVY!!
Ernesto,
There is another post somewhere on this but the simplest and easiest way is to by a Range Technology’s Range AFM/DFM disabler. I have two of them and they work awesome.
Exactly!!!!!! The Range Tech. AFM disabiler plug in, is the best answer. Put one in our 2012 Tahoe. Stopped all the problems. Ours had a lifter clack, that sounded like they were going to come trough the hood. No oil consumption, but a lifter clack. Chevy Dealer laughed at us. Told us we were not using correct oil, and not changing it enough. What BS. Bought the Range Tech. unit and even the mechs. couldn’t believe how it works. Get one! It WORKS
Where can I get the ” range tech”? And how much is it? Thanks
there $200 google it or do what i do and put it in L and tap the gear manual +/- to 6 or 8 depending on your trans.
I tried all the shifting tricks my self. Including using TOW HAUL mode. That’s only a momentary fix. Using the $200.00 Range Tech. plug in, is a solution that so far, has proven to work long haul. Look on line, it’s now being sold in a ton pf outlets. It’s worth every single penny. It’s better than kissing GM’s butt, to try and get some kind desired response. Like I said, the Chevy Dealer laughed at us. They know there’s a problem but won’t warranty any of it. Thus, the Law suits!
Ernesto,
There is another post somewhere on this but the simplest and easiest way is to buy a Range Technology’s Range AFM/DFM disabler. I have two of them and they work awesome.
Find someone with HPtuners, or similar tuning software. It’s super easy and unlike the plug in deals it’s permanent, should cost about the same too
Look up the Range module. Plugs into the OBD II port.
for free you can put in L and tap the gear selector to 6
Tuner install or go to gm dealer and have deactivate with factory scan tool
You can buy a device thar you plug in and will will send a code saying its under load that will make it stay a v8 i forgot the name but amazon carrys it or google it for the name good luck
How do i find out if there is a class action suit here in Kansas, my 2013 Silverado Z71 uses 2 additional quarts between services.
I have a 07 avalanche LT up here in Washington state is there any law suit because mine uses a crap ton of oil
sell now
Hi, ya . I’ve had a common situation with my 2007 Tahoe “ would burn every 2000 miles approx. 8oz to a pint of oil. had to fill it periodically light went off , took it down to the dealer and they told me it was normal that it was burning oil. and the engine didn’t last more than 120,000 miles due to the burn off of oil. Sad☹️. I installed a new motor and tranny went bad at the same time for $9,300. I feel they had issues already with this motor with the deactivated four-cylinder but they didn’t want to take responsibility. Thanks
Alabama, I have 3 and all consume at least a quart between oil changes. 2011 uses 2 or 3. Fouls plug. Smokes taking off then clears up. Oil pressure gauge reads 0 , bell rings, light on for low oil pressure. Has 60 psi on manual gauge
My 2011 Chevrolet Silverado does the same thinh,2-3 quarts of oil between changes,fouls out plug #6 and #7 every month,come to a stop then take off and it blows blue smoke for a minute.
sell all 3
Problem they had almost the same exact problem and 2000 with the play between the Rams and the Pistons in the cylinder walls and they were slapping you can hear him knocking when they when you first called start them and all they did was give you a receipt or a coupon for money off of a new truck so don’t expect anything because that’s pretty much what we got back in 2000
Oops sorry about the misspells I was talking into my phone
My 2014 silverado will consume over 2 quarts in 3000 miles
sell now while used prices are artificially are high and you have to get a 2nd mortgage to fix it.
I use 5 qts between oil changes about 1Q every thousand miles… religious oil changes with synthetic dexos oil since new… #1 cylinder I get about 17k miles before spark plugs grenades… I have 155k on the clock 2011 Silverado 5.3
Alex, you should never, ever put a full synthetic is a brand new engine. The reason is that it is so slippery that the rings never seat in properly. Years ago Mercedes offered free oil changes, but they only put a full synthetic in the engines after the first 15,000 km, which is 9,300 miles. This way, everything wore in properly, before the synthetic was added. I drove a baby Benz with a 4 cylinder Kompressor engine, from Detroit area back to Toronto at night. As much as i could, i was driving at 180 KPH on the HWY 401, with virtually no traffic at midnight. It had 20,000 km on it and the car owner was in the passenger seat, sleeping most of the way. We checked the oil before and after the 950 km return trip, with no noticeable consumption, even at those high speeds.
I was going to ask if maybe “break in” procedure might be part of the issue with these engines. The corvette had issues with that, had to change protocol to not have damaged engines.
wow the oems must be real stupid putting full synthetic in at the factory,be the first to tell them and they will probably give you a lifetime supply of free new vehicles for the millions in warranty claims you will save them.
Ouch
That is a lot of oil if you’re burning it that quick why in the hell are you using synthetic that is quite a bit of oil
sell asap
My parents have had their 2011 suburban for about 10 years now and in the past few years my dad says that it has been sucking oil like crazy. I’m guessing that it depends on driving styles (which my dad likes to drive aggressively) and how good they were built. He also tows his boat a lot which could also contribute. But it’s a older car so what do you expect?
Have you tried going to a heavier oil grade? Older engines that burn oil are know to “seal” back up with going 1 grade heavier. Every engine burns at least a little oil. I have a 09 5.3 and it has 189k, lots of heavy towing and only burns 1/2 qt every change, course it’s had its own share of maintenance, intake gasket at 169k. Needs new plugs now. What do you expect with older engines? I think it’s funny the lawsuit here says GM is responsible for having an oil level gauge. Should we tell the lawyers they need to sue Ford for the model T not having a “level” gauge as well? Lawyers are out of control🤣
We have a 2005 silverado 1500 and no oil usage. Then we got a 2008 silverado 1500 and it uses oil, have changed the valve cover and installed the deflective shield on pressure valve and it still uses oil. Both trucks were purchased preowned. GM needs to own up and fix this problem.
sell that 08
Have a 2012 Silverado, bought it with 68k, didn’t use a drop in a 6k oil change, now all of the sudden I’m about 1.5 quarts low between oil changes.
I have replaced my 5.3 in my 2011 Sierra I wish I new about this defective engine
I have an 03 Sierra four-wheel drive with a 5.3 with 155000 miles and it doesn’t even use a quart between oil changes which I change every 3000 miles
I have a 2008 flex fuel 5.3 I am now changing the engine for the second time, but gonna do the DOD DELETE, pre 2007 motors are way better I have a 03 Silverado with almost 300k on it and still runs excellent except me replacing the 4L60E transmission twice
I have a 2010 silverado Z71 with a 5.3L with 111,000 miles had it for over 2 years, bought it with 50k on clock and use only mobil1 advanced synthetic oil and filter, I have to put a avg. of a quart and half in everytime between oil changes, so I see the problem others are having, it’s a pain to do like going old school always having to check oil on dipstick , don’t rely on the sensors , oil pressure is always running normal, it’s only the mysterious oil consumption
I Have a 2019 RST SILVERADO 5.3 that have 53000 miles on it and the cam shaft is bad been in the shop for a month I think that engine is junk
I am in the automotive rebuilding business. The most common problem we see in any LS series engine is the oil ring on pistons being stuck or filled with sludge. I believe a couple of things may cause this problem. 1- lack of maintenance with oil change, either way too many miles or 2- the wrong weight oil. Have talked with customers that were starting to see oil consumption and by changing oil brands and less miles between oil changes have been able to correct the problem. Even when we take apart an engine that was known to be using oil never see any piston, cylinder wall or bearing problem, only oil control ring problem. I can’t say which oil is best, but not all are the same as far as helping to prevent sludge. Just remember oil is much cheaper than replacing your engine. Read your owners manual and pay attention to type of oil and when to do maintenance. Nothing wrong in using a shorter mileage for change rather than factory recommend.
Would you say Mobil 1 is a oil you would use in your vehicle. Thanks
I have a 2017 GMC Sierra 1500 Z71 and it also goes through a lot of oil. Seems like im in the shop getting a oil change every 3- 5 months within 1 month it goes down to 50% oil remaining. O know that not good. I have asked my local dealership and they said its not a issue. The local dealership isn’t very helpful.
I use Mobil 1 5W-30 in all of my vehicles. From V-8’s, V-6’s, and 2.0L with Turbo charger, all get changed at 5k or 1 year whichever comes first, I’ve never had to top off any between changes. 3 of them since new, no problems.
Yes, but after the 500 mile break in. I don’t want to give my opinions on oil brands as each their own. Best to search but a few mentioned here are rated very high. With any LS or turbo, or any direct injection, I would search catch can. And as someone already provided good advice, get AFM.
I have met a few that change their oil religiously, but always swing past a quick lube place that uses low grade bulk 5w30 oil. I also know that having the Dexos rating means you pay GM for the certification. There is no follow up testing to see if oil manufacturers are maintaining the level of quality. (concerning on bargain brands)
I too have been part of rebuilding LS engines and hole heartily agree! Cylinders are clean. My examples are junkyard finds or high performance builds, changing the heads and cams. These engines take massive abuse and no oil issues. I will also include cold starts, meaning let it warm up a minute before immediately putting in gear. And at stop lights, don’t press the gas immediately to 4k RPM. Reason, engine friction/wear is on initial start up to get the oil through the valley’s from the oil pump in the pan. Same for the stop light. As for oil, my 475 hp LS1 5.7 uses M1 FS and changed at 3k miles or sooner based on track usage or how long it sits and my 09 Colorado 4×4 v8 5.3 has 114k and no oil usage too. I use Castrol Edge FS, changed at 7k miles or 5 months which ever comes first. PLUS, ALWAYS CHECK THE OIL. Other areas to check, oil blow back into the induction system that can put into air filter. That’s oil consumption because the PCV isn’t efficient with direct fuel engines. New aftermarket correctness is called a “catch can”. Instead of having oil blow into the induction system the oil is caught into the can where you can put it back in the engine or dump it. Sometimes the oil can lubricate the smog devices and cause an SES on your dash. This is one of the biggest issues new motors mentioned in this thread. Direct injection has its positives and negatives. Other mechanics want to chime in….
Hilarious. This commenter sounds like a GM UAW member. Lol. Oil type. Yep, uh huh.
I own a 2009 sierra alt 5.3 210000 miles and no oil issues. Course I did have the AFM tuned out and although it gets crappy mpgs it okay it’s a pickup truck and I’m good with it….
Paul v Estes. I have 2007 classic with a 5.3 new with 82 miles uses 1qt oil every 1000 miles.now at 100 plus .i have low oil pressure and still using oil will gm go good for this? What can I do?
sell
Stop using synthetic oil in those engines I went straight to using a high quality petroleum based oil in my 2011 silverado after my warranty was up and never had issues my oil pressure is higher no lifter noise and no oil consumption some folks just don’t get it
You know I have a Note 3 Sierra and I’ve tried to run synthetic in it and I actually get lower oil pressure running that synthetic and I’ve checked it and went back to a regular 5:30 and oil pressure was fine and I would go back to his synthetic and it would be the same thing I would have less oil pressure so I stopped running synthetic I don’t think these motors really care for that synthetic while that’s what I’m finding out my 03 that I get much better oil pressure with without a standing out just a regular Standard Oil
My Tahoe 2010 burn oil smell burned oil after 30: minutes drive
A heavier weight oil will only make things worst. All engines now use very thin low tension rings. By reducing ring tension which is the drag or force the ring pushes against the cylinder wall it takes less force to rotate the engine so free horsepower and better fuel mileage. Now because of this reduced friction the ring is not able to remove heavy weight oil from cylinder wall so we use 5w/20 or maybe as light as 0w/16. Things get very critical very fast in newer motors!
Well I never got that memo then because I’ve used 5w30 rotella for years in these engines and never had one burn oil yet with oil changes around 3500 miles alot of problems are from neglect and poor service
My son has a 2009 Silverado. Checked oil level before leaving on a trip to Dallas from Tinker AFB in OKC. Ran it low on oil on the 6 hour round trip and tossed it’s cookies. Came home on a flatbed. Two year Airman sure didn’t need that added expense. Sad kinda…….
Need some help understanding how I can get involved in the lawsuits filed regarding the GM’s 5.3L Vortec engine. Have a 2010 Avalanche that just had to replace the engine core because of bad value lifters and the camshaft was toast. Embarrassed to say how much it cost me… GM dealership says Chevy won’t respond to the problem.
Hey Joe,
I have two Avalanches, an ‘07 for a winter beater and a ‘13 for summer. The ‘07 at 252k started burning oil badly, lifter noise, coding for a #1 and #7 cylinder misfires, “service traction control” and “service stabilitrak”. It then would crazy hard shift. Mechanic said the book states to replace cam and lifters. Not an option with those miles. He pulled his “Range AFM Disabler” out of his ‘18 Silverado for me to try. I went less than 2 miles and it started running perfectly and all the codes cleared! I ordered one the next day and it has been running as it should with it installed. I’m at 256k now and all is well. I cant say that your situation was the same as mine, but maybe this gives some hope to others that have this issue. I would have sent this to the boneyard if not for the Range.
I had the same problem on my 07 I’m disgusted.$$$$$
Goggle is your friend . Disable AFM or better get the baby 8 , the 4.8 Silverado V8
Beer Goggles?
I have 5.3 and it uses guard every 1500 miles and bank 7 fouls out too had 36000 on it when I got it now has 103000 on it should I be worried about it
sell
I have 5.3 and it uses quart every 1500 miles and bank 7 fouls out too had 36000 on it when I got it now has 103000 on it should I be worried about it
yes sell
I have a 2006 5.3 crew cab 4wd. Its been the best vehicle ive ever owned. Only time i have had to add oil was at around 8000 miles between an oil change (yes,my fault 100%) i have around 160k on it. Im in iowa. Super cold winter starts, and scorching hot summers. Ive heard horror stories starting in 07 with oil consumption. Only issue i have had is with the rockers. Would like to buy a newer truck, but between rusting out something terrible or being the exxon val-diez….i will just stick with my 06.